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Frank Bruni, This is War

Dining message board eGullet is abuzz with discussion of Wednesday's NYT dining reviews, specifically whether the fact that the $25 and Under entry, Thomas Beisl, is more expensive than the main reviewee, Sripraphai, portends a fresh apocalypse. Apparently, it does. Writes one poster,

If there was any doubt, Frank Bruni's review of Sripraphai makes clear that he is waging an all-out assault on the star system as we have come to know it...

But to those who would compare Bruni to Sheraton, I would say: Frank Bruni, you're no Mimi Sheraton. Mimi Sheraton had the experience, expertise, gravitas, and sense of mission that one needs in order to wage a campaign to change the Michelin-like system created by the old white men. So did Ruth Reichl. Frank Bruni has demonstrated no such talent. When it comes to food, he is a talented writer of prose, and as far as I can tell not a whole lot more.

· Bruni and Beyond: NYC Reviewing [eGullet]