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Rogue iPod Costs Babbo Four Stars

Frank Bruni issues his first review as the new Times dining critic, re-awarding Babbo the three stars Ruth Reichl gave it six years ago. (Why not four? Apparently, Batali has an iPod that includes the Black Crowes.) While the debate begins about the new critic at foodie message boards eGullet and Chowhound (very positive so far, e.g., "His review of Babbo in today's paper is everything I hope a review to be: informative, literate, and entertaining"), the Village Voice's Robert Siestema issues his list of the city's top 100 Italian restaurants geared to a slightly different demographic than Bruni writes to?Babbo, for one, doesn't make the list. Siestema's top five:

1. Lupa, 170 Thompson Street, Manhattan
2. Roberto's, 632 East 186th Street, Bronx
3. La Villa, 261 Fifth Avenue, Brooklyn
4. Max, 51 Avenue B, Manhattan
5. San. Cono, 303 Graham Avenue, Brooklyn
Regarding the list, eGullet's head honcho, Fat Guy, notes, "I have nothing but the utmost respect for Robert Sietsema's reviewing acumen and culinary judgment. This list, however, is a crock of shit."
· Arias From the Kitchen [NYTimes]
· 100 Best Italian Restaurants [Village Voice]
· Frank Bruni on Babbo [eGullet]
· NYT Bruni's first review [Chowhound]
· 100 Best Italian Eateries from the Voice [eGullet]

[inside: the rest of the Voice Top 20]

6. 'ino/'inoteca, 21 Bedford Street, Manhattan
7. al di la, 248 Fifth Avenue, Brooklyn
8. Grimaldi's, 19 Old Fulton Street, Brooklyn
9. Lodomini's Taste of Italy, 871 Third Avenue, Brooklyn
10. Via Emilia, 240 Park Avenue South, Manhattan
11. Otto, 1 Fifth Avenue, Manhattan
12. Maffei Pizza, 688 Sixth Avenue, Manhattan
13. DiFara's, 1424 Avenue J, Brooklyn
14. Giorgione, 307 Spring Street, Manhattan
15. Malatesta, 649 Washington Street, Manhattan
16. Gino's Focacceria, 7118 18th Avenue, Brooklyn
17. Trattoria L'Incontro, 21-76 31st Street, Astoria, Queens
18. Fratelli's Pizza Cafi, 404 Hunts Point Avenue, Bronx
19. Joe's Restaurant, 66-53 Forest Avenue, Ridgewood, Queens
20. Totonno's, 1524 Neptune Avenue, Brooklyn