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Scenes from a Food Court

With the Time Warner Center approaching its first anniversary, NYT food critic Frank Bruni asks the age-old question, does good food taste worse when it's served in a mall? He replies:

It is usually disconcerting. It is sometimes disorienting. Alongside the restaurants on the fourth floor is a bar, the Stone Rose, whose music echoes up and down the hall, trapped under the same roof. I left Masa one night and felt my post-toro tranquility shatter under the oppressive beat and incongruous lyrics of "Hungry Like the Wolf." I was irritated like the coyote.
Uh... moving on, Bruni concludes, "The layout and gestalt of the Time Warner Center were annoyances, but they were ignorable." Which isn't a bad way of summing up our feelings about the whole place.
· Married to the Mall [NYTimes]